Each Culinary Artist Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.